40 · 海浪
Waves
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Waves are the children of the struggle between ocean and atmosphere, the ongoing signatures of infinity. Rays from the sun excite and energize the atmosphere of the earth, awakening it to flow, to movement, to rhythm, to life. The wind then speaks the message of the sun to the sea and the sea transmits it on through waves—an ancient, exquisite, powerful message.
These ocean waves are among the earth's most complicated natural phenomena. The basic features include a crest the highest point of the wave, a trough the lowest point, a height the vertical distance from the trough to the crest, a wave length the horizontal distance between two wave crests, and a period which is the time it takes a wave crest to travel one wave length.
Although an ocean wave gives the impression of a wall of water moving in your direction, in actuality waves move through the water leaving the water about where it was. If the water was moving with the wave, the ocean and everything on it would be racing in to the shore with obviously catastrophic results.
An ocean wave passing through deep water causes a particle on the surface to move in a roughly circular orbit, drawing the particle first towards the advancing wave, then up into the wave, then forward with it and then—as the wave leaves the particles behind—back to its starting point again.
From both maturity to death, a wave is subject to the same laws as any other "living" thing. For a time it assumes a miraculous individuality that, in the end, is reabsorbed into the great ocean of life.
The undulating waves of the open sea are generated by three natural causes: wind, earth movements or tremors, and the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun. Once waves have been generated, gravity is the force that drives them in a continual attempt to restore the ocean surface to a flat plain.
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整篇课文
Waves are the children of the struggle between ocean and atmosphere, the ongoing signatures of infinity. Rays from the sun excite and energize the atmosphere of the earth, awakening it to flow, to movement, to rhythm, to life. The wind then speaks the message of the sun to the sea and the sea transmits it on through waves—an ancient, exquisite, powerful message.
These ocean waves are among the earth's most complicated natural phenomena. The basic features include a crest the highest point of the wave, a trough the lowest point, a height the vertical distance from the trough to the crest, a wave length the horizontal distance between two wave crests, and a period which is the time it takes a wave crest to travel one wave length.
Although an ocean wave gives the impression of a wall of water moving in your direction, in actuality waves move through the water leaving the water about where it was. If the water was moving with the wave, the ocean and everything on it would be racing in to the shore with obviously catastrophic results.
An ocean wave passing through deep water causes a particle on the surface to move in a roughly circular orbit, drawing the particle first towards the advancing wave, then up into the wave, then forward with it and then—as the wave leaves the particles behind—back to its starting point again.
From both maturity to death, a wave is subject to the same laws as any other "living" thing. For a time it assumes a miraculous individuality that, in the end, is reabsorbed into the great ocean of life.
The undulating waves of the open sea are generated by three natural causes: wind, earth movements or tremors, and the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun. Once waves have been generated, gravity is the force that drives them in a continual attempt to restore the ocean surface to a flat plain.
海浪，是海洋与大气相互搏击的产物，是无穷无尽的世界不断留下的印记。阳光激发地球的大气，赋予它能量，使它开始流动，有了节奏，也有了生命。风再把太阳的讯息带给海洋，海洋则通过波浪继续传递这古老、精妙而有力的讯息。
海浪是地球上最复杂的自然现象之一。它的基本特征包括：波峰，即波浪的最高点；波谷，即最低点；波高，即从波谷到波峰的垂直距离；波长，即相邻两个波峰之间的水平距离；以及周期，即一个波峰前进一个波长所需的时间。
海浪看起来像一堵朝你移来的水墙，但实际上，是波浪穿过水体，而水大体仍留在原处。 如果水也跟着波浪一起移动，那么海洋和海面上的一切都会不断涌向岸边，后果显然将是灾难性的。
海浪经过深水区时，会使水面上的一个水质点沿大致圆形的轨道运动：先朝着迎面而来的波浪移动，再升入浪中，随后随浪向前；当波浪继续前进、把水质点留在身后时，水质点又回到出发的位置。
从成熟到消亡，波浪与其他任何“有生命”的东西一样，遵循相同的规律。它会在一段时间里显出奇妙的个体性，最终却又融回生命的大海。
远洋中起伏的波浪，来自三个自然因素：风、地球运动或震动，以及月球和太阳的引力。波浪一旦形成，重力便不断驱动它们，力图让海面重新恢复平坦。
学完这一课
保留一个主动作，用平行短语增强节奏，但别改变事实关系。
译文依据整理稿，由本站按中文表达重新校订；解析据吴应时整理资料及首轮审校稿；词伙与练习提示为本站学习设计。原PDF第174—177页，2022年2月第2版。